To be honest, I assumed that Wazwan was the main focus of Kashmiri cuisine until I travelled to Srinagar. I was determined to try the renowned feast at least once because I was aware of it and had seen photos of exquisitely prepared dishes.
I had no idea that Wazwan was just one aspect of Srinagar’s amazing culinary heritage. Freshly baked breads greet visitors in the morning, fragrant kahwa keeps them warm, home-style meals are served throughout the afternoon, and smoky vegetarian kebabs and other traditional treats bring the city to life in the evenings.
By the time I departed, I was thinking about more than just one special meal. I was thinking about everything I’d eaten in between.
Srinagar’s wazwan lives up to every expectation
Let’s start with the dish everyone talks about. Or rather, the feast. Wazwan is one of Kashmir’s most cherished culinary customs; it’s more than just dinner. A traditional Wazwan, prepared by expert chefs known as wazas, can consist of over 20 courses, many of which include slow-cooked food with aromatic spices, prepared with unique flavours.
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In fact, Wazwan is considered such an important part of Kashmiri culture that it is traditionally served at weddings and large family celebrations, where guests often share the elaborate meal from a large copper platter known as a trami. It’s rich, generous, and meant to be enjoyed slowly, not rushed through.
My mornings in Srinagar began at local bakeries
Many hotels in Srinagar offer fresh, authentic local tastes that can make a great breakfast for you. However, a great place to grab your first meal of the day is a local bakery. People carrying paper bags filled with warm bread from local bakeries can be seen if you stroll through Srinagar early enough. I quickly went to join them.
My favourite way to start the day is with freshly baked girda, lavasa, kulcha, sheermal, and baqerkhani. While some had a crisp crust that went well with hot tea, others were soft and ideal with butter.
These weren’t fancy coffee shops. These bakeries were run and owned by families and served the community for many generations. Even the most standard meals can reveal a lot about a place.
Kahwa became my favourite break between sightseeing
There’s a drink in every city that you can’t help but go back to. In Srinagar, it was kahwa. It was just what I wanted after a walk through the Mughal Gardens or a chilly morning on Dal Lake, served hot with saffron, green tea, almonds, cardamom, and occasionally cinnamon.
Kahwa has a more ceremonial feel than ordinary tea. It’s not rushed. You take a seat, wrap your hands around the cup, and allow the spices to work their magic. I was searching for reasons to place a second order by the time the trip was over.
I fell in love with Kashmiri home-style food too
Even though Wazwan was unforgettable, some of my favourite dishes were much easier. Lotus stems are cooked in a yoghurt-based gravy in a bowl of creamy Nadru Yakhni. Aromatic spices were used in the Kashmiri preparation of comforting Dum Aloo.
Recipes handed down through the generations are used to cook seasonal vegetables. These were the kinds of dishes that the locals frequently eat, and they made me appreciate Kashmiri food in a whole new way. Not every memorable meal has to be a feast.
Srinagar’s street food has its own charm
I noticed that I was drawn to little roadside stalls in between sightseeing stops. There were crispy snacks, spicy chaats, sizzling seekh kebabs straight off the grill, and local vendors offering office workers and students quick bites. The food was delicious, but so was the ambience.
I realised that Srinagar’s food culture isn’t limited to dining establishments when I saw people congregate around their favourite stalls, chatting while they waited for freshly prepared food. It’s part of everyday life.
Don’t skip the Kashmiri desserts
Kashmiri sweets were a welcome treat after all those flavourful meals. A tasty conclusion to substantial meals was provided by traditional treats like Phirni, rich in cardamom and nuts, and festival favourites like Shufta, which is made with dried fruits, saffron, and spices.
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Even if you’re not someone who usually orders dessert, this is a time to make an exception. Richness and delicate flavours are expertly balanced in Kashmiri desserts.
Final thoughts
If you’re visiting Srinagar, don’t make the mistake of planning only one memorable meal. Yes, experience a traditional Wazwan. Additionally, get up early to enjoy freshly baked bread from a nearby bakery, stop in between sightseeing for cups of fragrant kahwa, sample smoky kebabs from crowded food stalls, try hearty Kashmiri home-style dishes, and make time for traditional desserts.